We’ve all got our favorite color, that one that just seems to “pop” for us more than all the others. For me, that color is orange; nothing seems quite so vibrant as a bright orange bloom on a sunny day. Whenever I come across a particularly beautiful orange specimen, I just think about how good it would look in a whole orange arrangement. That’s why I put together this garden design to serve as a planner for myself and the other orange-aholics out there.Read More
The National Garden Bureau has declared 2014 the Year of the Echinacea, and I say it is about time! Echinacea is one of those rare perennials where the both the petals and the center of the flower are highly attractive, not to mention the fact that they are so easy to grow: these little troopers are so robust and healthy that they are about as close to invulnerable as a flower can get.Read More
We here at Wayside Gardens (and Park Seed and Jackson & Perkins) are always thrilled by signs of spring in our little corner of the world. So it was especially nice today, after the deep freeze we experienced last week, to see one of the harbingers of spring, the daffodil, show its pretty head near the exit road of our place.
Just what color could they be? I personally don’t know as this will be my first spring with our fair establishment. So I’ll keep everybody up to date as the days wear on. Hang on, neighbors in the north! Hope springs eternal here at Wayside.Read More
Gardeners have a love/hate relationship with winter. The cold is one of the biggest killers of plants, but at the same time many plants have a chilling requirement—having adapted to a cold climate, they now require a certain length of wintery conditions to allow them to undergo the mysterious process of vernalization.Read More
The most enchanting structures are not made out of brick and mortar; they are made of stems and leaves.Read More
Hydrangea pruning rules vary from one variety to the next, but none of them are too complicated. The easiest to remember is white-blooming hydrangeas – most white hydrangeas bloom on new wood and can be pruned as soon as the blooms fade. If you haven't pruned your white hydrangea this winter, you can go ahead and cut them back for full spring blooms.
For most macrophyllas, mopheads, and oakleaf hydrangeas, blooms form on at least one year-old stems. If you prune too severely you will not have any blooms. Other than cleaning out the dead and ugly parts, it's best to leave these alone unless your plant has become too large.
If you are pruning for cut-flowers, your goal is not to make the plant
look pretty, but to get the best blooms on long straight stems. First,
remove all of the dead or dying material that you would normally
remove. Second, you will cut the plant back to about a third of its
current size. Cutting the plant really low, will force it to grow long
stems, which is exactly what your want.
You’ve invested a lot of time, money, and energy in your garden, and the result is a gorgeous landscape you’re extremely proud of! Yet, you and your neighbors aren’t the only ones admiring your hard work – nighttime marauders are treating your prized perennials and favorite flowers like an all-you-can-eat buffet. Sound familiar?
Well, there is a solution: Wayside’s deer-resistant plants and all-natural deterrents discourage grazing, with unpleasant tastes, smells, or textures, leaving your garden intact and thriving, despite after-hour visits from unwanted guests. The key is to keep changing your approach so the deer don’t get used to whatever technique you’re using at the time. Keep reading for a few tips.
Deer Control Advice From Our Customers:
We recently held a contest to see who could come up with the best deer deterrents. Many people sent in really great submissions but one stood out and I’d like to share some winning tips with you:
Here are those tips we promiced you:
Spread mothballs around the garden. Deer hate the smell of the mothballs
Buy a dog. Any scent of an animal near by will stop any deer from coming near a graden.
We’ve all seen it–one quick frost and all of your beautiful flowers and plants turn to green mush. Of course, the obvious answer is to bring them inside, but where do you put them? How much light do they need? How much water do they need? These things will all change when you move your plants to a different environment, and the shock of the change may be as damaging as the cold.
Here are a few ideas to help tender plants and gardeners survive the cold together:
- First, make sure your plants are in loose, sandy soil or a potting mix, and your pot has holes in the bottom. If the moisture can’t drain off your plant the roots will surely rot.
- Next, Find a nice sunny spot in your home, preferably a south-facing window. Artificial light will work, but use florescent bulbs. The heat from incandescent bulbs will dry your plant out very quickly.
- Make sure the temperature stays above 55 degrees Fahrenheit, anything lower than that and you might as well have left them to the elements. Also, don’t sit your container plants too close to cold windows.
- Avoid drafty places near vents or frequently opened doors–your plants will dry out quickly. For most tender plants, the soil should be moist but not wet. Check your soil’s moisture daily.
- If you have potted tuberous plants that grow from bulbs or rhizomes like caladiums, tulips or dahlias, you can store those pots inside in a dark cool place, like a closet or cabinet.
Happy Gardening!Read More